Archive for November, 2006

Panama City

I caught a flight from Bocas Del Toro down to Panama City to save having to take something like a 12-14hr bus ride; the flight took around an hour. Once I arrived in Panama City I grabbed a taxi from outside the airport and headed into the city.

There was a road closure because of an accident so my driver said he needed to turn round but it was gridlock so he happened to see a friend of his next to us in the traffic jam and asked if I could get out and jump in the other taxi so he could head down a different road. I was a little wary but decided he looked okay and transferred cars.

This is where an impromptu 1 hour tour of the city started as the ‘taxi’ didn’t know where my hostel was! Unfortunately I didn’t have a map either because I gave my guide book away before leaving Bocas.

The driver spoke no English and my repeating the address and name of the hostel ten times did nothing to improve the situation. I wrote down the address and draw a rough map from memory but it wasn’t getting us anywhere. I asked to find a car hire place to pick up a map and then I could show him where to go; all the while he was trying to get me to go elsewhere. I wanted the Mama Llena’s hostel and he was trying to drop me at the Marbella Hotel, and similar.

We found a hire place but it was closed for lunch or something, so after an hour I grabbed my bags and walked away. I found the nearest decent looking hotel and walked into reception.

There was a tour desk there with maps and I looked for the road I wanted, however it was somewhat different to the basic one in my guide book and I had no idea where it was! So I asked the guy at the desk if he could get me a taxi to the hostel and he replied no problem.

I checked with the driver that he knew where he was going and got a lift in a blacked out limo! For the cost of $5 I got to my hostel and finally checked in only to find Johnny was sitting there! It was the fourth time I’d bumped into him; he was still waiting for a boat to take him into Colombia after leaving Bocas a week earlier.

I decided to head out to the canal the next day and managed to see a tanker going through the Mira Flores lock as well as a US submarine which was pretty cool.

The following day I headed out to the Tocumen International airport and caught my flight home via Miami. I thought this would be a real pain as I had been in Central America for 4 months but there was no problem at all and I got my transfer back to London, Heathrow without any hitches.

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Puerto Viejo and then Panama

My final stop in Costa Rica was Puerto Viejo. After being dropped off there with Jack and Chris we headed for Rocking Js where a lot of people we’d met said was the place to be. We checked in and got a two bed room for three as the dorms were full; they promised to add another bed which didn’t turn up in the end so Jack slept on the floor! During the night we had some visitors who tried to grab stuff from our room through the window, fortunately we woke up and they didn’t get anything, but we decided to find somewhere else as a result.

We met some guys we’d seen in La Fortuna and they recommended the Hotel Puerto Viejo so we checked in there instead. Same price and a better feel about the place. A room with three beds too.

We spent several days in Viejo, hiring some bikes and heading south to Manzanillo, some 10km down the coast to do some snorkelling. We spent a couple of days on the nearby beach just relaxing in the sun.

On one of the days the other two guys were swimming and I was sitting on the beach reading when Chris spotted some guy run out of the bushes and grab the bag of a guy next to us as he paddled in the sea. Chris shouted from the water but he didn’t understand and when he got into shore the thief had gone. Apparently this is a common occurence on beaches in Costa Rica so we always left someone with our stuff whilst the others went for a dip.

The following night my board shorts went missing from the balcony outside our room; I mentioned it to reception and they said their security guard was a bit sketchy and they had sacked him that day. I described my shorts and some guy approached me later in the day saying he might know where they were. I described them again and he went of to ‘see if he could find them’. Five minutes later he came back with my shorts! He made up some excuse about catching someone with them but didn’t know whose they were; I was just glad to get them back so I didn’t press it further. I believe he was the security guard and he got his job back!

Jack had to leave the same day as myself and Chris; Jack was heading back to San Jose to catch a flight up to LA before going back to Alaska. He was feeling a bit ropey that morning with a dodgy stomach so we booked him a shuttle bus as it was the fastest way. A couple of days ago Jack got in touch to say he had a story to tell about the trip. I was thinking of the bus having to make stops for him to relieve himself, but the driver wasn’t paying attention and missed a corner, careering off the road through some trees into a field, stopping just short of a cow! Jack said the only thing that stopped the van rolling was a huge rock they hit! The driver flagged down a lorry and got the van pulled out and then tried to carry on; Jack said hold on a minute and checked the underside of the van and saw the axle was broken and it was not safe to drive. They waited a further hour for another van to turn up and then made the rest of the trip at half the pace and finally got into San Jose at midnight rather than 6pm. Not quite the time saving planned upon! Fortunately everybody on the bus was okay, but it could have been a different story.

Myself and Chris had a less eventful transfer up to Bocas Del Toro in Panama, taking a bus to Sixoala on the Costa Rican border, across the bridge into Guabito Panama, a taxi to the river through the banana plantations, and a water taxi from Changuinola through the mangroves to Bocas.

Bocas Del Toro is full of tourists coming to dive and enjoy the island beaches. There’s no real beach to speak of on Bocas, but plenty just short water taxi rides across to other islands in the archipelago. I’ve down a couple of days diving since Chris decided to do his Open Water course here with a Dutch guy Eric we met. Apart from that it has been beaches, snorkelling, and drinking too much in the evenings!

We’re staying at the Heike Hostel which is owned by the same people as Mondo Taitu where most of the backpackers head. It has a great balcony overlooking the park where you can sit a pass the day watching the locals and tourists going about their business.

Nights have involved making use of happy hour at Mondo and around 11pm going to the ‘shipwreck’ bar where there is a deck around a shipwreck. You can even jump in an swim if you fancy it.

One strange thing about Panama is that it is illegal to walk around without a T-shirt on. With the humidity here most days that is somewhat of a challenge. Chris has been warned by the police twice and told to cover up!

I’ve been here for All Souls’ Day and the celebration of independence from Columbia in 1903. Lots of local bands playing and kids marching through the streets playing music at all hours of the day. There was a nuclear powered sound system in the central park yesterday that prevented a long recovery in bed!

I’ve spent longer here than planned but have a flight booked for Panama City on 7 November from where I will spend a couple of days before heading back to the UK on 9 November. I arrive back on 10 November and hope to catch up with everyone for a few drinks that evening as it’s Friday night. Let’s hope I’m not too tired.

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La Fortuna and back to the Caribbean

After getting a little surfing in at Tamarindo, my journey took me to La Fortuna where there is Volcan Arenal which is a very active volcano. I actually travelled on my birthday which was poorly planned, but we met up with a group of people and had a few beers to celebrate.

As it turned out, Stacey headed off to Monteverde with an old school friend that she bumped into, and I went to La Fortuna with Chris and Jack.

We had an amazing few days staying in the Backpackers Hostel which had a pool and was overlooked by the volcano.

I had intended to spend a little more here to do a few tours. The first trip was a hike through the cloud forest where we saw more monkeys and a toucan. The trek takes you to a view point from which there is a great view of the volcano as it spews out hot lava rocks. The tour is timed to reach the view point just as it gets dark so that you can really see the lava. The volcano is spewing out all day but usually it is not possible to see the lava. The most amazing part was hearing these giant boulders, about the size of a bus, starting from the top and falling all the way down the volcano. The final part of the tour is to visit some hot springs and sip a few beers or cocktails whilst watching the lava. Very relaxing.

We also took a canopy tour here as I decided not to take the trip to Monteverde. The tour involves 11 zip lines hung throughout the cloud forest, the longest one being just under 1000m. We had a great time flying through the forest, although there was a section of the day that it rained so hard that we couldn’t see where the platforms were to start breaking, and the lines were so wet that braking didn’t do alot anyway! I’m glad they had a guy stopping us as I flew in to the platforms way too fast. The tour ended with a half hour pony ride through the cloud forest, the first time that I’d stepped onto a horse. I really enjoyed it but less so after one of the guides horses fell over just behind me and my horse kicked off as a result!

We visited another set of hot springs on another evening and managed to take our own beer this time as the other place was really pricey.

In order to head up to the Caribbean coast again we booked up a White Water Rafting excursion which picked us up in La Fortuna, took us up to the Pacuare river, and then dropped us off in Puerto Viejo. This saved us a days travelling. The rafting was fantastic, with grade 3 and 4 rapids; apparently one of the top five places to do it in the world. We rafted 30km down the river spending around 4hrs with a short lunch stop. I loved it.

Next update on Puerto Viejo and onwards to Bocas Del Toro in Panama where I am writing this from.

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